Here's my tentative list of things that need to be done to get her driveable:

1) Drum to Disc Conversion (probably)
2) Front Suspension Overhaul (upper/lower ball joints, bushings, sandblast, paint)
3) New Shocks & Springs
4) Total Rewiring (lights are all f'd up)
5) Fix seatbelts.
6) Fix Transmission Leak

Eventually:

1) Automatic to Manual Conversion (have a WC T5-- need BH, clutch kit, and linkage)
2) Gas Tank Sending Unit/Wiring/Gauge (gas gauge perpetually reads full)
3) All Weatherstripping (windows, trunk, doors)
4) More blocking
5) Paint
6) Keyless Entry

Parts I need:

1) Ashtray
2) Windshield Whiper Arm
3) Bezel for Headlights
4) Four Side Lights
5) Antennae
6) Headliner/Interior Kit
7) Bucket Seats
8) Rear View Mirror
9) Driver Side Mirror
10) Pretty much complete interior (carpet, door trim, etc.)
11) Seatbelts

Are you going to save those seat covers?

I put 'em on e-bay as "Slightly Worn Vintage Seats!!"

The tires on my Nova are in really bad shape and are going to have to be replaced before I can drive it. I'm not ready to spend $1000 for new rims, but I would like to go ahead and get a set of rims that look a little better than the steel rim/hubcaps it came with.

On every car I've ever had I just replaced the tires when they wore out. Replacing rims is a whole different thing entirely. On the technical side, you have to worry about all this crap like backspacing, rubbing, brake configuration, and bolt patterns. On the aesthetic side, there's tire size, lift/drop, and then just general tire appearance. And you can't just assume that because a certain set of tires looked good on one guy's car, they'll look good on yours. Engine weight, suspension quality, battery configuration can all affect the car's stance and possibly dictate whether a certain tire will work or not.

This is the best site I've found for demonstrating how all these factors can affect the Nova. Here's a few configurations I really like:

 

Chris is running 16x7 Torq-Thrusts he got from Jeg's that have 4.75" backspacing, and he threw on some 205/40-16 tires to complete the look. No rubbing or clearance issues at all.

 

Okay here are a few of mine. Wheels are Center Line Scorpions: 15 x 6 front (3.5 BS) with a 205/70/15, 15 x 8 rear (5-1/4 BS) with 275/60/15 or 28 x 10.5 slicks (usually use a 5/16 to 7/16" spacer to center the wheel just right).

 

I love the stance on this one.. but unfortunately I don't have any details.

Update: GUITARWANNABEE got back to me w/ the details on his car. He says, "Basically its nothing special, Traction bars, Super stock springs, .. I run a 275 rear Tire & a 235 Front. The color of the car is a 200 Buick Color called Dark Cherry WA-9088 is the code."

 

Here my car it has a 255 60 r 15 no problem:

 

Another 68 with a nice stance. Chevy 15x7 Rally wheels BF Goodrich Radial T/A's Front, 205/60 15, Back, 235/60 15

I'm out of money for the month (trying to limit myself to $100 a month), so I decided to pull the instrument cluster out and clean it up a little bit. Gonna buy some silver hobby paint for the lettering and this stuff called SEM plastic/vinyl dye for the cluster.

   

Like these seats:

  

My car came with a trunk-full of trim parts. Most of it is unusable, but I'm going to try and save a little money and clean up the dash bezel and some of the salvageable plastic pieces. I'm not sure why, but some of the parts are black and some are green (the original interior color). I'm assuming the previous owner was picking up random parts for his restore and just got whatever he could find. Here's one of the original armrests:

 

Call me crazy, but I think I'm going to ditch the lime-green and go with a black interior. I ordered some Landau Black SEM Vinyl Dye online for $9. I went ahead and ordered the SEM soap and leather/plastic prep for another $9, but I honestly think some scotchbrite, dishsoap, and acetone would have worked just as well. After cleaning all the parts throughly, I hung it from the garage door and sprayed 3 or 4 coats. It dries really fast, so I was done in about 45 minutes.

Here's the green armrest and steering column cover after cleanup and dying:

 

I think it came out really good. My only concern is that this stuff will scratch off. I found a couple rough spots that I missed in the cleanup. I was able to scratch off the dye fairly easily, sand it down, and respray. For $18 bucks, I figure it's a worthwhile experiment. I can always pick up some aftermarket stuff if it doesn't hold up.

A friend of mine sent me a cool resource for accessing auto repair manuals. Apparently it's some kind of online library that has put all their automotive manuals online:

1) Go to http://www.oplin.org/auto
2) Enter 123456789 for a Library Card #
3) Select "Lebanon Public Library"
4) Select your year, make, & model.

Tonight I pulled the seats out and started cleaning up the floors. Apparently the guy I bought the car from just spot-welded a couple pieces of sheet-metal on top of the rusting out floors and then caked on this thick, black goo to cover everything up. I have no idea what this stuff is, but as you can see, it didn't do anything to stop the rust. It's already starting to bleed through. I'm going to cut it all out and weld in some new floor pans.

  

Once I finished scraping all the black sh*t off the floors, I moved up to the roof and started scraping off all the insulation. It wasn't hard, but just kind of a PITA since the whole car quickly filled up with brown, most-likely carcinogenic dust. I wore a respirator and goggles, but it still sucked. It dawned on me about 5 minutes in that in a 40 year old car, the insulation could be asbestos , but I looked it up and fortunately it's not.

  

That looks rust free compared to mine. Let's sandbast and get down to the bottom of the problem. It may be painful but it will be quick. Maybe 99% rust free means that you can only see 1% of the rust with a visual inspection.

I'm game. I think it's best if we do it somewhere that I can drink. I really don't want to be sober when I find out that my car consists of 3 lb of sheet metal held together by 1000 lbs of fiberglass, bondo, and roofing tar.

Someone @ stevesnovasite recommended this video for doing floor panel replacements. Course, who needs video when you have a floor panel replacement expert working right down the hall?

  

Really like this color. He says it's "Matador Red code R" here. This is apparently a stock color for my year Nova.